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Skincare glossary

The words on labels and in skincare advice, explained simply. Looking for a specific ingredient? Search every ingredient.

A

AHAAlpha hydroxy acid
Water-soluble acids, such as glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid, that exfoliate the surface of the skin to smooth texture and brighten. They can make skin more sensitive to the sun. Glycolic acid →
Allergen
An ingredient that can cause an allergic reaction in some people. Jouaxia flags common ones, such as fragrance and essential oils, on every product. Allergen flags →
Ampoule
A concentrated serum, often sold in small bottles, popular in K-beauty. Used after toner and essence, before moisturizer.
Antioxidant
An ingredient, such as vitamin C, vitamin E, or green tea, that helps protect skin and formulas from damage caused by sunlight and pollution. Vitamin C →

B

BHABeta hydroxy acid
An oil-soluble acid, mainly salicylic acid, that exfoliates inside pores, so it's often used for acne and blackheads. Jouaxia rates it Use caution for pregnancy. Salicylic acid →
Broad-spectrum
A sunscreen that protects against both UVA rays (which age skin) and UVB rays (which burn). Dermatologists recommend broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.

C

Ceramides
Fats that make up much of the skin barrier. Ceramide creams help dry and sensitive skin hold on to water. Ceramide NP →
Chemical sunscreenOrganic UV filter
Sunscreen filters, such as avobenzone or octinoxate, that absorb UV light. Some have limited pregnancy data, so Jouaxia rates oxybenzone, homosalate, octinoxate, octocrylene, and avobenzone Use caution. How sunscreens are rated →
Cica
Short for Centella asiatica, a soothing plant extract popular in K-beauty for calming red or irritated skin. Centella asiatica →
Comedogenic
Likely to clog pores. “Non-comedogenic” products are made not to, though the term has no legal standard and everyone's skin is different.

D

Double cleansing
Washing with an oil-based cleanser first to dissolve sunscreen and makeup, then a water-based cleanser. A K-beauty habit, mainly useful at night. Face routine →

E

Emollient
An ingredient that softens and smooths skin by filling gaps between skin cells, such as squalane, shea butter, and plant oils. Squalane →
Essence
A light, watery K-beauty product applied after toner to hydrate and prep skin for serums.
Essential oils
Concentrated plant oils, such as lavender or tea tree, used for scent or other effects. A common cause of skin irritation; clary sage and rosemary oils are rated Use caution in pregnancy.
Exfoliant
Anything that removes dead skin cells: chemical exfoliants (acids, enzymes) or physical ones (scrubs). Overdoing it damages the skin barrier.

F

Fragrance-free
Contains no added fragrance. Not the same as “unscented”, which can include masking fragrances to cover other smells. Check the ingredient list for fragrance or parfum.

H

Humectant
An ingredient that draws water into the skin, such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and urea. Works best under a moisturizer that seals the water in. Glycerin →
Hyaluronic acid
A humectant that holds lots of water. On labels it's often sodium hyaluronate. Pregnancy-safe by Jouaxia's ratings. Sodium hyaluronate →
Hypoallergenic
A marketing claim that a product is less likely to cause reactions. In the US there's no federal standard for it, so check the ingredient list instead.

I

INCIInternational Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients
The standard names used in ingredient lists around the world, such as Aqua for water and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter for shea butter. Reading labels →

K

K-beauty
Korean skincare and beauty, known for layered hydrating routines, gentle formulas, and ingredients like snail mucin and centella. Korean brands →

M

Melasma
Brown or gray-brown patches, usually on the face, triggered by hormones and sun. Common in pregnancy, when it's sometimes called the “mask of pregnancy”. Daily sunscreen helps. Skin changes in pregnancy →
Mineral sunscreenPhysical or inorganic UV filter
Sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which sit on the skin. A lower-absorption choice during pregnancy. Zinc oxide →

N

NiacinamideVitamin B3
A versatile ingredient that helps with oil, redness, pores, and uneven tone. Pregnancy-safe by Jouaxia's ratings, though it can cause flushing in some people. Niacinamide →

O

Occlusive
An ingredient that forms a seal on the skin to stop water escaping, such as petrolatum, dimethicone, or shea butter. Petrolatum →

P

PA rating
A UVA protection rating used on Asian sunscreens, from PA+ to PA++++. More plus signs mean more UVA protection.
Patch test
Trying a small amount of a new product on a small area, such as behind the ear or inside the arm, for a few days before using it all over.
Peptides
Short chains of amino acids used in anti-aging products to support the look of firmness. Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 →
pH
How acidic or alkaline something is. Healthy skin is slightly acidic, around 4.5–5.5, so gentle cleansers are often “low pH”.
Pregnancy-safe (Jouaxia rating)
Jouaxia's rating for products with none of the ingredients it flags for pregnancy. It isn't a guarantee or a test result. Rating methodology →
Preservative
An ingredient, such as phenoxyethanol, that stops bacteria and mold growing in a product. Water-based products need one to stay safe.
Purging
A temporary breakout when starting an ingredient that speeds up skin cell turnover, like an acid or retinoid. It usually settles within weeks; breakouts from other products are more likely a reaction.

R

Retinoid
Vitamin A ingredients, including retinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate, tretinoin, and adapalene. Effective for acne and aging, but Jouaxia rates them Avoid during pregnancy. Retinol →

S

Serum
A lightweight product with concentrated ingredients for a specific goal, applied before moisturizer.
Skin barrier
The outer layer of skin that keeps water in and irritants out. A damaged barrier feels dry, tight, stingy, or red.
Sleeping mask
A K-beauty overnight mask, usually a gel or cream, used as the last step at night to lock in moisture.
Snail mucinSnail secretion filtrate
A K-beauty favorite for hydration and soothing. Jouaxia flags it as an allergen for people who avoid or react to snail-derived ingredients. Snail secretion filtrate →
SPFSun protection factor
How well a sunscreen protects against UVB rays that cause sunburn. Dermatologists recommend SPF 30 or higher, reapplied every two hours outdoors.
Surfactant
A cleansing ingredient that lets water lift away oil and dirt. Some, like sodium lauryl sulfate, can be harsh on dry or sensitive skin.

T

TEWLTransepidermal water loss
Water evaporating out through the skin. Moisturizers and a healthy skin barrier reduce it.
Toner
A watery product used after cleansing. Today's toners usually hydrate or gently exfoliate rather than strip oil.

U

Use caution and Avoid (Jouaxia ratings)
Use caution means a product contains an ingredient often limited or not well studied in pregnancy; Avoid means one generally advised against. Rating methodology →